The Unwound Third > Gitfiddles, Harps, Washboards & Kazoos

Repairing a lifting bridge

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Hey Riv,

One issue you want to plan for is intonation. When bridge was re-glued on my little Stella the luthier (Gary Brawer in SF) filled the saddle slot before re-gluing, then he recut the slot after assessing intonation requirements. Stewmac has a tool for doing this that adjusts for each string. You might also need a pin router. and a jig to cut slot.

Of course, it is possible that intonation will be correct (or close enough) if you glue it back in the same place, but if not, filling the slot becomes a lot more fiddly.

There's always something.


Hi Rivers,

I've replaced a bridge on a vintage 30's supertone - I got the Stewmac "Bridge Spatula", to lift the bridge, two soundhole clamps 7" with leveler, and used titebond glue, a variety of exacto knives, dental mirror,small gooseneck light. I'm sure youtube has videos with options for protecting the finish around the area. if you want to consider any of the stewmac tools...

Excellent feedback as always guys.

Harriet, thanks, I was wondering whether using Titebond (and which of the three varieties they produce) was a good idea, since I don't think I'm a traditional hide glue kind of a guy. I have all the other tools or their equivalents except for the clamps which I will order.

Wax, good point re intonation. Better make sure it goes back exactly where it was. The intonation was/is pretty good (for an old Regal-produced guitar) where it is now.

I will keep you posted on how it goes, fun project.

Titebond II is "water resistant" and Titebond III is "waterproof", which means neither would likely be easily softened by steam if you needed to lift bridge at a later time. I think Titebond Original would be the best bet, providing a bond stronger than the wood.


I agree with Wax, use Titebond original... good tip.  Stewmac stuff is nice but price-y, you can always find alternatives deep C clamps and a $10 kitchen spatula or putty blade works fine.


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