Topic: Choosing Strings for Older Guitars

[crawley]

hey y'all, my name's aaron gabriel crawley, 31 yrs old, and i have also been a pre-war blues geek for years. it all began with borrowing the columbia robert johnson cassette's from the public library. i've been playing for about 19 years. the only guitar i have right now is a beat up '26 L-1 that i bought when i lived in memphis, tn. i now live in albany, ca.

maybe someone can help me out? i use martin silk & steels 11-47's. i'm bored with them but i can't seem to find any others brands, gauges, etc..nayone with an L-1 or similar that can suggest something new?

thanks,
aaron

[GhostRider]

Aaron:

I have a recent reissue L-1 on which I have tried Elixirs and Phosphor bronze. I like the phosphor bronze much better, I think the mahogany bodied guitars need the brightness.

I string mine with medium-guage, poss. your old girl would prefer lights.

John Pearse strings are my brand if available

Alex

[Slack]

Hi Aaron, welcome to Weenie Campbell.

Is this a flat top? or archtop?

slack

[waxwing]

So is that an archtop L-1 or the earliest flat top (i.e. pin bridge) L-1, which did still have a little arch to it but was "H" braced?

...was how I put it earlier today before I got called away, mid post.-G-(GMTA)


 I'm not familiar with the Silk and steels, but I think they create less tension than "steel" strings. if you tried, for instance, a phosphor bronze, or an 80/20 bronze, by Martin or John Pearse or D'Addario, you might start out with 10s. If you search for any of their websights you may find lots of info on various string types and their tensions.
BTW, I live in San Francisco and would love to take a look at that L-1 sometime. Any chance you might be going to Suzy T's CD release concert at the Freight and Salvage in Berkely on Saturday? We could at least say hey.
All for now.
John C

[crawley]

hey, thanks for the tip on strings. i've thought about putting light gauge steel strings on, but it's so lightly built that i'm terrified of destroying the top. can the early stellas handle steel strings?

btw..my L-1's a flat-top. spruce top, mahogany sides, back and neck. i'll post pics as soon as i figure out how. i'm not real computer savvy.

waxwing, i just might show up to that suzy thompson deal. depends on sundays work sched...

aaron

[GhostRider]

Hey Aaron:

BTW that "beatup" L-1 of yours is probably worth upwards of $1800 US. I have seen some moderate to good condition L-00's go for $2300 US+ recently on eBay, the rarer L-1 should be worth more.

I'm sure yours sounds great. I only have to wait 75 more years until mine gets that broken in!

According to my research, 1926 was the first year that the flattop L-1 was produced.

Alex

[Slack]

Hi Aaron,

I've got a 1928 L0 (although no way to tell exactly what year on these guitars) that I keep strung with lights and it handles them fine - I did have a little reenforcment done to the bridge plate - but I think they can handle lights.  The scale is pretty short on these, I think mine is 24.25 - so that lessons the tension too.  Hang on to that guitar - these are the first flat tops Gibosn made.

cheers,
slack

[Richard]

Take a look at www.newtonestrings.com - really highly recomended and they do stock them somewhere in the US, if not I'm sure they would put some in the post to you - they send 'em to me!

[uncle bud]

Newtones are available from the Twelfth Fret in Toronto as well, a bit closer than sending for them across the pond. Info here: http://12fret.com/retail/newtone.htm. Haven't tried these strings myself but have meant to for awhile. Next time I'm at the Fret I'll probably pick some up.

[NotRevGDavis]

Newtones are available from the Twelfth Fret in Toronto as well, a bit closer than sending for them across the pond. Info here: http://12fret.com/retail/newtone.htm. Haven't tried these strings myself but have meant to for awhile. Next time I'm at the Fret I'll probably pick some up.

Here in the States Newtones are available at The Guitar Gallery. I buy my Michael Messer National Newtones directly from National Reso-Phonic in San Luis Obispo, CA. The Newtones aren't on the new website so you may want to give them a call, (805) 546-8442.
I really like the sound on my Tricone I'm using 13-56.
If you decide to use Newtones be sure to read the instructions before cutting any excess, the wound strings may un-wind if not under pressure.

[Muddyroads]

I learned this from some bluegrass guys.  I had always used nickel strings on electric guitars, banjo and sometimes mandolin.  Nickel has nice way of aging and seems to get better  sounding to my ears, then it will eventually die as the strings lose thier elasticity.  So I use  Ernie Ball or DR electric guitar  strings on my acoustics.  They last about as long as the coated strings and give mahogany  a   burst of brightness, which mellows nicely as the strings age.  Also I like the over toness they give.  Since electric strings tend to be lighter and have a springier core, it seems that they assert less pressue on the neck.

I have one maple bodied guitar that is a little too bright in the mid-range with nickel strings but the rest sound fine with them on.

Mud

[crawley]

Thanks everybody. Haven't tried the newtones yet, though I hope to soon. I have Elixers on now and they're actually closer to what I've been lookin' for. They're 10-47's. Punchier bass and mid's, but the highs are a little light. I'll try 11's next time I have $18 to blow on strings.

Aaron

[dabluz]

the gibson L-1 and L-00 are known for their great tone. these guitar were originally made to provide low cost entry level guitars. they first appeared around 1926, in 1929 they sold for 27.50 and 37.50 respectively. they were very lightly built guitars with .o8o top thickness and very light bracing which did not extend under the kerfing also the bridge and bridge plate were very thin and narrow. all of this contributed to there exceptional tone. but they do not handle tension very well. i have both of these models from early thirties. very hard to nail down exact year.? around 1931-32 gibson "thickened the bracing up slightly"? moved it forward towards the sound hole to help accomodate string tension and keep them from falling apart at the sacrifice of a little tone. pre 30 models are very light but have exceptional tone. around 1937 these models were discontinued to give way to more "durable guitars" with less warrranty problems. the L series continued with 6 models with heavier construction.

string tension is of defineate concern with the early models. thomastik-infeld makes some very good strings.(i believe the best string made), two series would probably work well. they have round wound nickel low tension "sliders" series and a nylon core phosphorous bronze series. both are exception strings that are great sounding. the sliders are very good if your doing any slide playing also and the phosphorus bronze are exceptionally good for finger style. both are very low tension. they are expensive but have a very long string life. especially the nickel round wound.

they can be found at thomastik-infeld. com. they are available through elderly and muscians friend, although muscians friend only carries the "sliders" line. for anyone who plays lap steel or dobro the make a round wound nickel "jazz swing" series that is unsurpassed.

[shadylane]

dabluz, you mentioned thickening of L flat top braces and movement of the X brace around 1931-32.  Do you have you details on this?  Was this associated with switch from 12 to 14 frets?  Where did you get the info?  Thanks.

[Brian]

I have a old turn of the century Martin 00-21, different guitar for sure, but I have been using the Thomastik-Infeld also and have been pleased.
I use the Plectrum .011 -.050, much brighter sound then the silk and steel. The plain strings are brass coated steel, the wound strings are both steel and silk cored, A,D,G are flat wound E round wound.
Worth a try

Brian